A French Quarter Jaunt

The Traveler's New Orleans Appears Better than Ever 

By Susan J. Young

At the conclusion of a recent Carnival Fantasy cruise from New Orleans, I simply couldn’t go straight from ship to airport without breezing through the French Quarter.

Debarking the ship before 8 a.m., I hopped in a cab, and within 10 minutes, I was sitting at Café du Monde (shown at left*).

Since 1862, this coffee shop across from one end of Jackson Square has been a favorite French Quarter coffee shop.

Café & Beignets

First cultivated in Martinique in the 1720s, coffee came to America by way of New Orleans. As the French settled the Mississippi delta region, they carried their passion for coffee with them.

But during the French civil war, coffee became scarce so the locals simply added chicory, the root of the endive plant. The locals learned that chicory, when roasted and ground, bolstered the drink’s flavor and brew.

Today, it does the same. Chicory, when added in the proper amount, softens the bitter edge of the dark roasted coffee. As a result, the drink exudes an “almost chocolate” flavor.

To accompany your coffee, order one order of three beignets. One order is priced under $2. (See my beignets and coffee at right*)

Beignets are a legacy of the Acadians -- French citizens who fled to the Canadian Maritimes and later resettled in Louisiana. Essentially fried fritters, today’s beignet is a square piece of dough, fried and covered with powdered sugar.

You don't need to necessarily have beignets for breakfast. Café du Monde operates 24 hours a day every day of the year, except on Christmas Day and during the occasional hurricane.

The Look of the Quarter

Today, the French Quarter is as enticing as ever. 

After just a few minutes seated along the railing adjacent to the sidewalk at Cafe du Monde, I observed the city coming alive.    

Artists began to set up their wares along the perimeter of Jackson Square.

Locals walked their dogs. Not surprisingly, many of the adorable canines resembled their owners!

And a comical “animal balloon artist” implored tourists to stop while he concocted a creation for them.

I smiled to myself as New Orleans enchanted -- scene by scene, minute by minute. There simply is no spot on earth quite like the Big Easy. 

Overall, I found the French Quarter clean, neat and without any signs of Katrina.

That's not to diminish damage elsewhere, particularly in residential areas of the Ninth Ward.

But my focus here is to describe what the traveler will discover. My belief is that visitors will enjoy a wonderful vacation in exploring the French Quarter, Warehouse District, and the city's other tourist areas. 

Travelers are the front line in the local economy's ability to recover from Katrina. As a result, visitors are truly appreciated these days – by everyone from waiters to cab drivers.  

Let's put it in perspective.... Without the money generated by New Orleans tourism, the state would have to raise an additional $3,000 in taxes on every family in Louisiana to cover the deficit. Tourism generates $5 billion in visitor spending and $250-300 million in tax revenues.

As the economic engine of New Orleans, tourism also accounts for 25 percent of the City of New Orleans’ annual operating budget -- $210 million that pays for jobs, safety and transit.

Generally, while key tourist areas are much as they were in the past, there is a positive for visitors. You likely won't find it crowded.

There simply aren't as many visitors (except during major events). It’s wonderful to explore the French Quarter without the freneticism so rampant in the past.

Yes, this still is a party town. Yes, the revelers still come out at night in the French Quarter.

And, as we observed, Mardi Gras banners waved from every balcony in the French Quarter during our visit (see photo above right*).

But early in the morning is the perfect time to get out, walk the quaint streets and admire the architecture. Just soak in a part of French Americana that’s not replicated anywhere else.

Jackson Square

If you only have a few hours as I did – coming off a ship and heading for the airport – ask the cabbie to take you to Jackson Square (shown above*).

It's a garden spot in the heart of the French Quarter, and the perfect place to begin a walking tour or hop on a carriage for a guided tour. 

As with any large city, don’t flash money or valuables in this high traffic tourist area. Do take time to stroll. 

Few cities in the world are so identified by a building as is New Orleans. Its Cathedral-Basilica of St. Louis King of France (shown above with its spires shown at left*) is the oldest Catholic cathedral in continual use in the United States.

The original cathedral was established here in 1721. The famous three-spire one that’s a symbol of New Orleans was completed pre-Civil War -- in 1851.

But perhaps the most interesting building on the square is the Cabildo, constructed in 1795-99 as the seat of the Spanish municipal government in New Orleans.

Here is where the Louisiana Purchase Transfer ceremonies unfolded in 1803, when the United States bought out France’s holdings from Napoleon and expanded U.S. reach in North America.

Spanish and French colonial influences remain strong even in today’s New Orleans. You’ll see these in the city’s architecture; street signs and avenue tiled markings; cultural events such as Mardi Gras; and historic preservation efforts.

Today, the Cabildo, located at 701 Chartres St., is part of the Louisiana State Museum. Open to the public, it boasts artifacts and exhibits about Native Americans, Colonial History, the Louisiana Purchase, Territory to Statehood, the Battle of New Orleans, Antebellum (pre-Civil War) Louisiana, the Civil War and Reconstruction.

One of the most unusual artifacts that visitors may view is a death mask of Napoleon Bonaparte.

At 751 Chartres St., the Presbytere is also adjacent to the city’s cathedral . It's architecture resembles that of the Cabildo on the other side. (The exterior entry terrace is shown at right.*)

As with the Cabildo, the Presbytere is part of the Louisiana State Museum system; it houses a permanent Mardi Gras exhibit.

The Quarter by Carriage

Whether you’re in the city for a day or a week, one great way to explore the French Quarter is to take a carriage ride. (Yes, that's me heading out in a carriage at left.*)

Getting above the foot traffic is a comfortable way to see the city -- especially, if as with my situation, one is traveling with luggage in tow.

And it's fun and factually interesting to hear tales and commentary about the buildings and sites along the way.

Where can you find the carriages. Just head for the entrance to Jackson Square. They begin lining up around 8 a.m. or so. 

Most are pulled by mules (one is shown at right*) rather than horses. These animals tolerate New Orleans’ hot, muggy weather better than horses.

Some are four person carriages, others can accommodate larger groups. Prices vary, so definitely agree on the price with the driver in advance of hopping onboard.

For example, a couple might “charter” a carriage, or they might instead join other parties -- such as in a carriage for eight. 

During busy periods, you’ll likely hop onboard and join others also taking the tour. Expect to pay around $60 per person, varying by the specific type of carriage.  

One tip? Go around 8 a.m. when there aren’t streams of tourists in line for a ride. One carriage driver offered me the tour for $50 and I had the carriage all to myself.

For sure, a carriage ride tends to be a whirlwind tour. If you’re more slow paced, many companies offer walking or more leisurely tours.

For Type "A" personalities (myself included), a quick carriage ride – with a friendly, fast talking driver/guide spewing historical tidbits at every turn – is the perfect half hour escape.

I had only 90 minutes to explore the French Quarter. If you too are pressed for time, this is a great way to get a good sense of French Quarter quickly.

It would take travelers a full day to see the same sites on foot. 

And remember, motorcoaches can’t traverse all the same narrow streets, so a carriage ride provides a more intimate view of the French Quarter. 

Architecture: Look for the wrought-iron balconies (as at right*), the stable-like doors, the entries that lead to lovely courtyards within the interior of the building.

And savor the eclectic architecture—reflecting Spanish, French and colonial influences at every turn.

Take time to enjoy street signs and tiled placards. The French Quarter's signs are in English, but you'll see the French words just above those. Hint: “rue” means “street” in French.

In addition, on famous streets, you’ll find tiled signs describing the Spanish history. (For example, the tiled sign at left is just outside the Cafe du Monde.*)

The tour offers more modern architecture as well. Your carriage ride will likely pass the Louisiana Supreme Court Building at 400 Royal Street.

From 1910 to 1958, the Louisiana Supreme Court heard cases here. After a $40 million renovation, the Beaux Arts building is once again the court’s home. The building may look familiar as it’s been featured in several New Orleans-based movies.

Food, food, food: This tour also delivers a look at the French Quarter's diverse restaurants that serve everything from Po Boys to Cajun fare, from continental cuisine to Italian delicacies. \

From Arnaud’s to the Central Market grocery store, foodies will discover something for every taste. (A New Orleans seafood dish is shown at right.***)

While the main entrance to Pat O’Brien’s is at 718 St. Peter Street, your carriage will take you past the secondary entrance is off Bourbon Street.

Pat O'Brien's is the home of the Hurricane, a red, fruity rum concoction, garnished with an orange slice and a cherry. It’s served in a hurricane lamp shaped glass. Definitely stop back later to try one.

The tour also passes the New Orleans School of Cooking at 524 St. Louis Street. This renovated building was originally an 1800s molasses warehouse. Here you might learn how to cook New Orleans-style!

And while you're in the area, don't miss stopping at the Central Market, a New Orleans institution.

Housed in a colorful building, Central Market (shown at left*) is a great spot to buy a Muffalata, a savory sandwich of cold cuts, Italian bread and a unique olive salad. Many visitors swear it's the best in town and return every time they visit!

History ‘Round Every Corner: Historical sites abound in the French Quarter. One site along the carriage tour route is the Napoleon Bonaparte house.

No, Napoleon never visited but he was revered in much of French New Orleans. Supporters had hoped to bring the deposed emperor to the city in his later years. But, he died in exile on Saint Helena in 1821.

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop: Yes, pirate Jean Lafitte – who helped defend New Orleans against the British in the Battle of New Orleans – once owned this home (shown at left*).

Located at 941 Bourbon St., it’s now an intimate spot for piano music and drinks.

At the Beauregard Keyes House (shown at right *), you'll learn the stories of two families who resided here -- that of Confederate General Beauregard and romance author Francis Keyes. 

Located at 113 Chartres St., this ante-bellum home was built in 1826 for Joseph LeCarpentier.

Just across the street is the Old Urseline Convent at 1112 Chartres St.

Built in 1750, this historic structure was saved from the city’s great fire of 1788. (see photo at left***)

Today, it occupies a peaceful spot across the street from the Beauregard-Keyes House. This is one area of the French Quarter that's more residential and quieter overall than other hot spots.

One of the French Quarter's most interesting buildings is home to an unusual fence that reflects a cornstalk theme.

The Cornstalk Hotel at 915 Royal Street, began its life as as 1800s Victorian home. It was a B&B for a number of years. but now is only solely for special events, weddings and meetings scheduled in advance.  

(The cornstalk fence is shown at left, while the hotel is visible above.*)  

Joan of Arc Statue: Given by France to New Orleans in 1972, this statue (shown at right*) is an exact copy of the 1880 Emmanuel Fremiet statue of Joan found at Place des Pyramides in Paris.

The statue’s pedestal inscription reads simply: Joan of Arc, Maid of Orleans, 1412-1431, Gift of the People of France.

The statue is adjacent to the old French Market (shown above right*), now home to souvenir and specialty retail shops. Here you might buy tee-shirts, Mardi Gras beads, spices and hot sauce!

The French Market's community flea market showcases hand-made jewelry, artwork, crafts and clothing, which are popular purchases for visitors. Farmers also sell fresh fruits, veggies and Creole herbs.

What’s New for 2009 ?

The city has several new or newly relocated attractions.

A perennial favorite tourist hot spot is Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World. Here New Orleans’ famed Mardi Gras floats are created, maintained and restored. However, the previous site across the river wasn’t that easy to access. Previously, tourists had to take a ferry and then a shuttle van to the site. 

Good news! Starting earlier this year, Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World expanded to a new 300,000-square-foot location near the city’s convention center. As the company’s new corporate headquarters, the building hosts private events, houses the company’s float building operations and is home to the new Mardi Gras World.

The National World War II Museum has launched The Road to Victory capital campaign, a $300 million expansion that will quadruple the size of the existing facility. The expansion will be completed in phases by 2015.

The first phase, opening in November 2009, features the Victory Theater, a 4-D cinematic experience, and The Stage Door Canteen, a dining and entertainment venue capturing the spirit of the home front.

Additional phases will include a Campaigns Pavilion, the Liberation Pavilion and additional themed gallery pavilions.

Irvin Mayfield’s Jazz Playhouse at the Royal Sonesta opened on March 21; the award-winning trumpeter will headline and present star-studded musical performances.

After a $27 million renovation, the Mahalia Jackson Theatre of the Performing Arts also reopened in early 2009.

And if you’re in search of a truly odd attraction, the PARAPLEX, a multimillion dollar paranormal complex attraction, also opened earlier this year. New Orleans is often called America’s most haunted city.

This high-tech paranormal complex includes art galleries, hands-on interactive psychic testing exhibits, a simulated séance room, a Ghost Experience Simulator and its own on-site theater for workshops, documentaries and feature film screenings.

If you go, you have new accommodations choices. The Hilton Hotels Corporation has redeveloped the former Fairmont New Orleans, also known as The Roosevelt, as part of the Waldorf-Astoria Collection.

Just opened, the newly renovated hotel boasts 504 rooms including 135 luxury suites; state-of-the-art meeting and convention rooms; and a 12,000-square-foot spa and fitness center.

If you visit this year, you’ll discover many eclectic dining venues – both old favorites and new venues. Tom Fitzmorris of www.nomenu.com reports 992 restaurants open in New Orleans, a milestone for the city’s restaurant industry.

Cruising from New Orleans

We absolutely enjoyed our five-night voyage on Carnival Fantasy earlier in 2009. Check our report on the Carnival Fantasy upgrades at SouthernCruising.com.

The ship is recently refurbished with “Evolutions of Fun” upgrades including a new Mongolian style wok; a larger, more robust water park area (shown at right**); a totally renovated spa and fitness area; and new carpeting, wall coverings and upholstery in restaurants and other public areas.

This older ship now looks quite new. Carnival has done a nice job with the refurbishments.

However, if you want to sail on Carnival Fantasy  from New Orleans, it's best to make a reservation now. Why? Starting in November, that ship will move to Mobile, AL.

In turn, Carnival will bring in the larger Carnival Triumph to sail from New Orleans. Carnival Triumph will provide passengers with four, five and seven-day cruises and will carry 50,000 more passengers a year. There will be no interruption in cruise service for New Orleans during the transition.

For More Information

Planning a New Orleans visit? Check out www.neworleanscvb.com.

For Carnival Cruise Lines information, visit www.carnival.com.

*Photos above are owned, copyrighted and used on this press site courtesy of Susan J. Young. All rights reserved.

**Photos above are owned, copyrighted and used on this press site courtesy of Carnival Cruise Lines. All rights reserved.

***Photos above are owned, copyrighted and used on this press site courtesy of the New Orleans CVB. All right reserved.

Please do not link to nor copy any of these photos.